I will take any opportunity to try out a new loom! It is even better if I get the opportunity to assemble it as well.
I was able to pick up a 24” Kromski Harp Rigid Heddle Loom second-hand that had never been used. This is not really the norm, but sometimes when you buy second-hand it can be amazing what you find! I believe this loom was bought in 2014, and is a Harp and not a Harp Forte so I know that some things have changed slightly in the manufacturing (including a double heddle block instead of the single I have) since then, so keep that in mind when reading this review!
If you have purchased a newer version of this loom and have any different experiences, then please let me know in the comments! Share with the whole class!
This page may contain affiliate links. If you purchase something through these links then I will receive a small commission – at no extra cost to you! Please read our DISCLAIMER for more info. Thanks for the support!
The Kromski Harp comes in 4 different sizes: 8″ (the smallest rigid heddle size I have seen), 16″, 24″, and 32″.
Right out of the box you have pretty much everything you will need to get started! What you can expect in your box:
your loom (with a double heddle block)
8 dent heddle
heddle hook
2 stick shuttles
pick-up stick
2 warping clamps
warping peg
12 warping board pegs
warp helper
Optional accessories:
Stand – I have the stand and for the 24″ and up I really recommend it. This is for all large rigid heddle looms, though. It makes it much easier to weave on with it’s size!
Extra heddles – Weave more types of fabrics and yarns with different EPI’s! Choose from 5, 8, 10, and 12 dents.
Carrying bag – Make use of the folding feature and take your loom with you!
Weaver’s choice heddle – Kromski’s version of the variable dent reed so you can use different EPI’s in the same weaving!
Assembling the Kromski Harp
I was really excited that I was going to be able to actually assemble this loom. I couldn’t believe it was still in the box from 2014!
My loom came with some paper instructions from where it was originally purchased, and not from Kromski itself. I am not sure if this is the norm, but I have found assembly instructions on their website that you can view here.
For the most part, the assembly was pretty straightforward, but there are a few times that I found myself needing some further information. Looking back at the instructions from Kromski themselves, I probably would not have had any issues.
So, I hope you learn from my mistake!
Here is an assembly tip:
When you are attaching the wood handles for the ratchets it is much easier to line up the holes if you mark the rod with a pen or pencil (see image above.) The handles have a line on them so if you keep the line you drew lined up with the line on the handle you shouldn’t have any issues when you screw them together!
Things I changed (what I didn’t like)
During assembly I made a decision that was purely based off of my personal preferences. The way that Kromski has you setting up your apron strings is a method that I, personally, do not like. Everyone is different, though, so choose the option you like best and works best for you!
Instead of a continuous apron string that can move around, I opted to turn my apron string into individual pieces. This makes it so the apron bar is always level.
To do this, I cut my string into equal lengths and threaded them through a button before tying an overhand knot at the end. The button is to keep the apron string from coming out through the hole without the need for an extra large knot. If you decide to go this route you can use anything you want to do this.
One feature that I do not love about this loom is the locking mechanism it uses for when it is folded and unfolded. I have found this mechanism is not always the most stable. While generally it is fine, it is easy for it to unlatch. I would much prefer a mechanism that is not open on one side.
That being said, it still works as it needs to and the folding feature is one of my favorite features that can be found on a rigid heddle loom. Especially a loom this size, really benefits from the fact that it can fold in half when not in use.
As I said, the folding feature of this loom is one of my favorite parts even if I think it could have been done better. This is because I own and have reviewed another folding rigid heddle loom: the Schacht Flip.
It is hard to talk about the Kromski without comparing it to other folding rigid heddle loom options. I have yet to try out the Ashford Knitter’s Loom – another folding loom, but as soon as I get the chance – you will get a review!
The craftsmanship of the Kromski is beautiful. Especially if you like a loom with a little more “old-school charm” then clean lines. I, personally, like the look of the Schacht, but I can definitely appreciate the craftsmanship of the Kromski.
The Kromski features rounded decorative edges and more intricate details. It feels more like a classic loom than a more contemporary one, but that adds to its charm. All this while having the same capabilities of similar looms. As far as looks go – it really is just a matter of your personal preference as to which one you like more.
This loom comes with its wood completely finished and ready to go. No staining or oil are required when you take it out of the box. As already discussed, you do still have to put it together, but that is one step that you get to skip!
I love a loom that comes with finished wood, because not only is it easier and faster to get started weaving, it is also automatically protected from humidity and other moisture. This is not necessarily an issue you will encounter right away, but protected is always better than not.
This Kromski comes with extra features!
Who doesn’t love extras?
Beyond the folding feature, one of the biggest extras of the Kromski Harp is the built in warping board.
While most of the time you will probably be doing the direct warping method with your rigid heddle loom, the fact that you have the option to indirect warp is a really amazing feature! You really can not go wrong with more options to get where you want to go.
If you want to learn how to use a warping board you can read this post!
The included warping board means one less thing you have to buy for your weaving studio. While warping boards are not usually the most expensive tool you might buy for your weaving space, anytime you can get double duty out of your equipment you could be saving money and space.
It is a block that fits on the side of your loom and holds your apron rod straight while you are warping! This is really helpful when you are weaving wider fabrics and are just starting the warping process. The helper keeps the rod from moving and being wonky as you go. As your warp gets further across your apron rod you won’t need it anymore, but it is nice to have at the beginning.
Out of the box (not my box, but any new loom box…), this loom has a double heddle block which will allow you to explore double heddle weaving whenever you want! If you plan to keep weaving on your rigid heddle loom, I always recommend one that already has double heddle capability so you do not have to upgrade in the future.
Last, but not least, the loom comes with a heddle hook, but not just any heddle hook, one that is comfortable to hold! Most rigid heddle looms with come with a heddle hook straight out of the box, but they are not all created equal.
The Kromski heddle hook has a bulbous handle that sits well in your hand. This is more comfortable when you are warping a wide warp and holding the heddle hook for longer periods. It also has a bend at the end making it so you can pull your warp through at a more comfortable angle.
This might be a small thing, but it is really nice touch. Comfort and ease when you are creating is really important and something to consider always.
If you are interested in more ergonomic creating you should check out this post here!
How does it weave and who is it for?
As far as the weaving experience of the Kromski, it is nothing to really write about.
And that is kind of a good thing!
It weaves like pretty much every other rigid heddle loom that I have used.
So who is this loom for?
The Kromski Harp rigid heddle loom is for the weaver that wants a loom that is portable, has classic looks, and has the ability to weave with more than one heddle. They also like a loom that gives them options by doubling as a warping board.
Weaving and traveling are two things that actually go hand in hand quite often. While floor looms are big and heavy, your other options of frame looms or rigid heddle looms can allow you to get outside your studio and weave in the world. The Schacht flip folding rigid heddle loom is a great option for those who want the ability to weave larger pieces but the ability to do that wherever their life takes them.
The Schacht flip loom has a very special feature that I talk more about later, but essentially it folds in half for travel or storage. It actually comes folded in half during shipping so it gives you a good idea right out of the box just how compact and travel-friendly it can be.
While there are other folding rigid heddle looms, this one also has some other things going for it.
This page may contain affiliate links. If you purchase something through these links then I will receive a small commission – at no extra cost to you! Please read our DISCLAIMER for more info. Thanks for the support!
First, the Schacht Flip Folding Rigid Heddle Loom is a great-looking loom with its wood gears and finished wood. The flip loom has a low profile which aids in its portability and ability to be folded.
It comes in 15, 20, 25, and 30-inch options. These are the weaving width and not the total width of the loom itself. The loom that I have is the 15-inch version and is great for scarves, towels, and other similar woven projects.
The smallest version available to purchase is the 15-inch weaving width loom. This loom is a total of 20 inches wide. When fully flat, the loom is 28.5inches long, but when folded it is only 18 inches. With the heddle in the highest position, it reaches 7 inches tall (6 inches when folded) and weighs 6.5 lbs.
How to put it together
This loom is almost ready to go right away!
Unlike some rigid heddle looms that you can buy, there is very little assembly required.
An unfinished and un-assembled loom means they are less expensive, but also means they require work to get started. With the Schacht flip loom there is no finishing required because the wood is already finished and smooth. No worrying about any yarn catching on rough spots!
The only part of the loom the requires your input to get started is attaching the apron strings and rods. The apron strings that come with the loom are not solid strings, but instead, have holes up and down the length of the string. This is how you attach the different rods to the loom.
Initially, the loop that you have to create to attach the apron rod is a little confusing from the diagram in the manual, but it is really pretty simple.
First, you want to attach the strings to the smaller rod all at once. Place the rod in a hole towards the end of each of the three apron strings. Then place the string through the 3 holes in the front or back beam. (pictured above in the last panel)
For each of the three apron strings – fold the other end and locate the second to last hole. Try to open this up as much as you can and then bring your folded end through the hole. The loop that is created will go around the larger dowel rod. (see images below)
What it comes with
The Schacht flip folding rigid heddle loom (such a long name!) comes with almost everything that you need to start weaving right away. The only other thing that you will need is yarn and a pair of scissors.
When you buy this loom you get:
Your loom! ( I would hope so!)
2 flat shuttles
Warping peg and clamp
2 table clamps
Heddle hook
10 dent reed
Instruction manual
Optional accessories
While you get everything that you need (minus yarn) to start weaving, there may be other things that you will want.
Stand – can be used for both the flip loom and the Schacht tapestry loom. This stand has an adjustable angle so you can find whatever position is most comfortable. This is a great option if you don’t want or have the space to rest your loom against a table and your lap.
Extra heddles 5,8,10,12 – extra heddles are great to expand your possibilities with your loom. Get a different dent heddle for more EPI options or grab a second of the same dent if you want to weave with 2 heddles at a time.
Variable dent heddles – these allow you to have different EPI’s in the same weaving! They could be fun if you want to play with weaving with different densities.
Carrying bag – this bag fits any size flip loom and has pockets for all your accessories.
What it does differently
One of the biggest selling points of the flip loom is that it flips!
Well actually, it folds – and it folds quickly.
You can take your Schacht flip loom from ready to weave to ready to leave in less than a minute. This makes it a great choice for anyone that will be traveling with their weaving and wants to create longer pieces than would be possible on a frame loom.
The flip loom would be great for keeping in an RV, taking on a road trip, or even just a trip to the park. If you are going to be traveling with it often then a carrying bag (official or not) could be a great addition to keep your warp clean and all of your tools and supplies in one place.
One of my favorite things about this loom is that it does not have to be empty to go into travel mode. In fact, it can be folded with your warp still on the loom! This makes it an ideal travel companion.
How to fold your loom
To fold your loom for travel you have to first take a little bit of tension off of your warp. Do this by unclasping your ratchet briefly and turning the knob to loosen the warp a click or 2 (not all the way!) Make sure to re-clasp the ratchet before going on.
Lay your heddle flat so that the bottom of the heddle is wedged into your neutral position slot. Unscrew your side lock knob just enough to allow it to fold and loosen the T-knob.
Fold your loom in half! If there is resistance then STOP and make sure your knobs are loosened enough and/or check to see if you need to let off more tension from your warp. Your loom should fold very easily with no resistance.
Once folded – if there is any slack in your warp then tighten it up just slightly so that it doesn’t move around during travel. Your heddle and everything should stay in place!
To put it back in weaving position, just do the opposite – making sure to loosen your warp before trying to flip it back. This will help to make sure your warp doesn’t get put under unneeded stress.
Tighten all your knobs and start weaving.
Flat weaving surface
One other great feature of the Schacht Flip Loom is the ledge featured at the front of the loom. This simple addition makes it so that your warp plane is parallel to the loom and not at an angle. This makes a better weaving surface to work off of since it does not go directly onto the cloth beam. Without this ledge, your woven fabric would be at an angle so this makes it more like using a floor loom or table loom.
One of the other big attractions of the Schacht flip rigid heddle loom is the built-in slot for a second heddle.
While some looms have kits that allow you to add on a second heddle, this loom is ready from the beginning. The only thing that you will need is a second heddle!
Having 2 heddles to work with makes your rigid heddle weaving options expand greatly. You will be able to easily weave patterns and do basically everything you could do on a 4 harness floor or table loom.
Quirks & Tips
While not everything is perfect, I still would not say that this quirk is a negative but instead part of the learning curve.
Initially, it can be a little confusing to figure out how to create your down shed on your loom. There is not a specific slot or area that intuitively would house your heddle in that position. Luckily, it is actually very easy to get your down shed once you know where to look!
The area of your loom that has your heddle slots has a smooth and slightly rounded lower edge where the loom folds in half. This is where your heddle goes for your down shed. Even though this may not be immediately intuitive – the rounded edge makes it an easy transition. Since the loom is slightly raised due to the legs at the back, there is actually plenty of space to move the heddle to each position.
A really simple but helpful tip is to keep the brown paper that your heddle comes wrapped in.
That might sound weird, but this can be a great warp separator for use around your back beam!
Most of the time you may use craft paper or paper strips to separate your warp, so you might as well save this free (included) paper to use. If you need more or you are ready to replace your paper from a lot of use, you can always cut up a paper bag from the grocery store for another good option.
Who the Schacht flip rigid heddle loom is for
Everyone weaves differently and no one loom will be great for all weavers.
But, if you are the kind of weaver that likes to travel and really likes options then this is a great loom for you.
While portable weaving is simple to do with aframe loom, if you want to weave something a little bigger then this will work well. You also have the option to either weave simply with your single heddle or add on a second heddle to expand your options.
I recommend bringing this loom with you wherever you go and so you always have a way to get out your creative thoughts.
A simple frame loom is a FANTASTIC piece of equipment to have in your studio. They are versatile, portable, and easy to store.
They happen to also be a great way to learn how to weave. In fact, when I was learning how to weave we used a loom made from 18”x 24” canvas stretcher bars. No lie, I still use this exact same frame all the time in my studio. This is also the method I teach in my classes and workshops because it’s great for beginners, but has enough potential to still be perfect for professionals.
You might say I am a fan.
This post may contain affiliate links. If you purchase something through these links then I will receive a small commission that helps keep the blog going – at no extra cost to you! Please read our DISCLAIMER for more info. Thanks for the support!
Any loom made from a frame that does not use notches, nails, or any other method to hold and space your warp.
Simple.
What are your other options?
There are a lot of commercial frame looms out there that you can purchase. Different companies call them different things. Tapestry looms or lap looms can even look different depending on who makes them. Generally, they have dedicated notches for the warp and a device to make weaving simpler (more on that below). The looms vary widely in their price, size, and extra options.
So why would you choose one over the other? Let’s take a look.
You can use any frame you already have to weave on and you do not need to do anything special to it. Head down to a thrift store and buy some old picture frames. Take the glass out and voila! Frame loom!
Using picture frames as your loom can be a great EXTRA portable option since they are small and lightweight. They can easily fit in your bag to take with you on vacation or just to your backyard.
If you are looking for something of a more specific size, you can not go wrong with taking canvas stretcher bars and creating your frame from them. (THESEare the ones I use)
The stretcher bars are bought piece by piece which can allow for more unique sizes. For example – try making a 6” x2 4” frame if you want a loom that is long and skinny. It would be hard to find a pre-made frame that size. They are generally really inexpensive because they are meant to be covered up by canvas for painting. If you like this option but want something more attractive you can always decorate your simple frame loom to your liking later on.
Options!
Simple looms are incredibly versatile since you are not confined to any specific warp sett. The nature of the simple frame is that it doesn’t have any notches or pins to set your warp. The same frame can be used for 5 EPI, 8 EPI, and 14 EPI weaving! Having options means you can not only change everything up between weavings, but also within the same weaving! (Learn about EPI HERE) I personally think this is one of the best things about a simple frame loom. It can do pretty much anything I want it to.
Due to the versatility of the simple frame loom you can play with your EPI’s with no extra effort.
For example, there is a weaving technique called crammed and spaced where you purposefully have more than one EPI within the same weaving. Using a simple loom helps give you the flexibility to experiment with techniques like this.
If you do not want to be stuck using the same warp sett for all of your weavings this can be a better option than owning multiple frame looms.
Not that that is a bad option. It depends on how much room you have in your studio.
Display!
Choosing to use a plain frame (or a decorative one!) gives you the option to not only use the frame as a tool, but also as a way to display the weaving. This isn’t something that I do all the time – but admittedly it is really great option to have.
I have a stockpile of frames that I use for this reason…
Or maybe I just like buying picture frames.
I am always picking them up from clearance sections and while on sale. One thing to keep in mind when you use picture frames – you will have an excess of glass to deal with. I usually collect all my leftover glass pieces and then post them for free on Facebook marketplace for other people to create with!
There are a few ways to set up a weaving so that it can stay on the frame (2 selvedge warping is a good one!) If you do not like one option for warping your frame – then just try another!
Here is a pro within a pro: if you use your frame as the display method, when you are finished weaving – it is pretty much done! You do not have to do anything to the warp to finish it up and since it will stay under tension forever- you have to do very little (if anything) to the weft tails.
Cons of a simple loom
Well… nothing is perfect.
Math
Anytime you are setting up a weaving you will probably have to do a little bit of math. This goes for simple looms, commercial looms, floor looms, and basically any loom you can imagine. You can not escape the math completely.
Sorry.
The amount of math you have to do, though, depends on a few things.
If you are ordering a specific yarn for your warp then you may have to figure out exactly how much to purchase regardless of the type of loom you use. This goes for general convenience and integrity of the color. It is very annoying to be halfway through setting up your loom when you run out of yarn. Then you have to order it and wait for it to ship. All the while – you could have been weaving.
If your yarn is dyed than it is important to try to buy all of your yarn at one time to avoid any differences in dye lots. I have made this mistake before. I bought the exact same color – but when it came in it was a little bit lighter.
You live, you learn.
A simple frame loom requires figuring out your total warp ends. (Click on that link for how to plan your weaving!) This is a simple equation, but an equation none-the-less. It is determined by the EPI that you choose, the size of the weaving, and your warping method.
A commercial loom, on the other hand, will have a specific EPI that it is set for. In that case you would only need to know the width of the weaving you want to create.
Don’t worry – it’s not like this ↓
Spacing
Due to the fact that there are no nails or notches in your frame, the warp is a lot more likely to move. Anytime your warp moves, there is a chance that you could alter your EPI. Suddenly you may have 5 EPI on one side of your weaving and 7 EPI on the other. That’s a problem unless you planned it that way.
During the first inch or so, you can still fix your warp spacing. After that? It is mostly set. Using a simple frame loom requires a bit more patience to create and maintain even spacing – but it is totally doable! If you do not want to deal with that though, then a commercial loom is less finicky.
A heddle bar is a tool that you can use to create an opening (shed) in your weaving. Usually, the bar would raise every other warp so that you can eliminate the need to do the “over, under” motion. It allows for faster and simpler weaving.
This is a big advantage in the commercial loom column if you do no like weaving your tails back in. With the ability to use one of these tools you won’t have to change out your yarn as much. Every time you change your yarn you create a new tail you will have to deal with when you are done. This advantage is most notable if you are using a lot of one color. If you are weaving imagery and using a lot of different colors anyway, it might not be as big a deal.
While it is possible to make a heddle bar if you really want one for your simple frame loom, that takes extra time and effort. Most commercial frame looms have a heddle bar already included.
Beginner weavers need something that is simple, inexpensive, and versatile.
You do not want to spend a ton of money if you do not know that weaving is right for you – and I would not want you to!
So finding a weaving loom that helps you to get weaving sooner and explore weaving in many of its forms is essential for new weavers! If you are a more advanced weaver, and you are looking for something to add to your studio then there really is no reason not to get a simple frame loom as well. Seriously, what are you waiting for?
This is the loom everyone should have in their studio!
Starting out on your weaving adventure can be a bit daunting. There is so much to learn and so much to buy! This is a common topic here at Warped Fibers because I am always hoping to bring more people around to weaving.
You can enter your info into the form below to sign up for my mailing list to get access to the free guide or just click the link above!
You can also check out my beginner weaverpost for even more weaving tips for when you are starting out!
This page may contain affiliate links. If you purchase something through these links then I will receive a small commission – at no extra cost to you! Please read our DISCLAIMER for more info. Thanks for the support!
Looms are one weaving supply that might be the scariest to buy because they are the one that is the most exclusive to weaving. Everything else that you will need you will probably already have or will be able to use for other things.
What to look for in a beginner loom
Once you get to know what you want to do it can be easier to figure out what type of loom you want. I will be going over the 2 main types of weavings that you will probably be starting with and what type of loom you will need to weave them.
That being said, there are so many different looms out there, and all of them offer different things.
When you are first starting out it can be a good idea to try to find a goldilocks loom that is not too expensive and has some options but is still simple to use.
If you want to go all out from the beginning because you do not want to buy another loom later, just remember that there is nothing wrong with having more than one loom! You can also upgrade later once you know what you really like. There are many different places you can sell a used loom if you decide to make room for a new one.
Other things you might be looking for are a frame loom with a stand for easier weaving or a loom that is small either for storage or portability.
Make yourself a list and go from there.
Why you should start weaving with a frame loom
If you are new to weaving or looking to get into it then these are my recommendations for looms to get you started and get you hooked!
If you are brand new to weaving then the best way to dip your needle in is with a frame loom!
Frame looms are my favorite beginner looms and not just because they are how I originally started weaving.
That being said, there is a reason that most people start with frame weaving. They are (mostly) inexpensive, (mostly) small, and generally easy to warp.
Frame looms are just about as simple as you can get when it comes to starting your weaving journey. While, yes, you can start with a cardboard loom (learn how to make a cardboard loom here) if you have the ability I recommend you give a frame loom a try instead.
Frame looms will not only give you better warp tension but also will not fall apart after a few uses. They can even be just as inexpensive or almost as inexpensive as just pulling some cardboard out of your recycling bin.
That is because you can use a repurposed picture frame that you already have laying around or grab something from a clearance section for only a few dollars.
Speaking of warp tension, their ability to hold a very high tension makes frame looms ideal for tapestry weaving. If you are wanting to start your weaving adventure with tapestry then frame looms are the best option.
If you want something that may actually be simpler than a simple frame loom then you can get a loom with notches or make one with nails. These will warp up even faster than a simple frame loom (which already warps up fast) because everything is already spaced out and good to go.
Since there are many different types of frame looms there are varying degrees of difficulty when it comes to warping your loom. All of them though, are going to allow you to get weaving fast and with little effort.
The easiest frame looms to warp are going to be ones with dedicated notches or nails with either no shed system or a simple heddle bar (see above video.) These looms require no extra math to figure out your EPI and keep your warp spaced perfectly as you go.
Other types of frame looms are not hard to warp, but they may require a little extra effort. They do have their advantages though.
This means that not only are they good for travel, but they are also good for when you do not have a bunch of dedicated space to devote to a skill that you may not even love.
Do not worry. You will love it.
That sounded threatening… anyway.
Not only do you probably not know if you will love to weave or not, but you may not even know what you really want to weave. It is never a bad idea to start small and work up from there. If you decide later that you want a larger loom of any type you can still rest easy knowing that you can always still use your frame loom for smaller weavings or samples.
Why you should start weaving with a rigid heddle loom
Not everyone wants to weave tapestry.
When you are looking to weave something else, then a rigid heddle loom might be a better object for your creative input than a frame loom – at least to start.
Rigid heddle looms are great for weaving longer weavings that are either balanced or pattern woven, but tapestry should be left for a loom with the ability to hold more tension.
Easier to warp than a floor loom
Floor looms are notoriously annoying to warp. Not necessarily hard, but there are a lot of steps and it takes a while. The more steps there are, the more opportunities you have to make a mistake in the process.
Mistakes are good. They are how we learn.
For most people though, when first starting anything new it is a good idea to start on the easier side to get hooked first. It is a lot easier to deal with things that can be frustrating when you love what you are doing.
Rigid heddle looms have the ability to be warped directly instead of using a warping board or mill. This means that you eliminate a step in the warping process that requires you to measure out your warp first and then put it on your loom. Beyond this, the warping itself is simpler because there are fewer moving parts to deal with.
Unlike a floor loom, a rigid heddle loom only has 1 heddle for you to pull your warp through. This means fewer chances to make mistakes.
Sometimes a frame loom is just not going to cut it for what you want to weave. If you know going in that you want to weave scarves or other long pieces of fabric then starting with a frame loom may not make sense.
Weaving on a rigid heddle loom is great for when you want to create longer weavings and when you want to work on balanced or pattern weavings.
With its ability to have an advancing warp you can create weavings that just keep going!
Even if your goal is not to weave something specific, rigid heddle looms can be great for beginners because they allow you a lot of room to practice your weaving skills. Weaving, just like any other skill, will only keep improving with time and practice.
The more time you have to weave without having to re-warp your loom keeps you in the weaving mind-frame longer. A.K.A. more time to get hooked!
My beginner loom recommendations
If you really just want to get started with no fuss then purchasing a loom that already has notches and a shed device will get you weaving the fastest with the least amount of learning involved in the warping process.
Frame looms
If you are going the simple frame loom route then you can use any old frame you have laying around or one that is found in a clearance bin to keep it cheap. You can also use canvas stretcher bars for a more tailored size. I usually purchase mine here.
If you are still having some doubts then the best loom to start with is one that you do not own! Taking a local class helps you to get your needle on the loom without committing to anything you have to keep in your home. A lot of times you will get to use a loom that may even be beyond beginner status (but still has beginner capabilities.)
If you are in the Richmond, Virginia area then check out my in-person classes. If you are not, then just google weaving in your area to get in with a local weaver who can teach you on their looms before you purchase your own!
I talk a lot about floor looms and rigid heddle looms, but that doesn’t mean I don’t also have love for table looms. In fact, I am quite a big fan of table looms, but only just acquired one for my own studio! They are a fantastic option as both an only loom and an additional loom for your weaving studio.
Weaving on a table loom is not much different than weaving on other multi-harness looms, but there are some differences to discuss!
This page may contain affiliate links. If you purchase something through these links then I will receive a small commission – at no extra cost to you! Please read our DISCLAIMER for more info. Thanks for the support!
Essentially, a table loom is a floor loom but without the treadles. Instead, it has levers that activate the harnesses. These looms also, as their name suggests, are small enough to sit on a table. This makes them a great option for those who don’t have room for a full floor loom set-up!
Different table looms might have different lever systems, but they all pretty much work the same. You can see in the photos just four different lever systems either on the front, side, or top of the loom. You can also find table looms with pretty much any amount of harnesses. From 2 (below left) to 8 (below right) and even more. The Woolery has a great selection of table looms of different sizes, harness amounts, and lever configurations.
Regardless of the type of levers they have, pressing them down will lift up the attached harnesses and you can lift as many as you want in every single combination you can think of. This is possible because they stay activated until you release them.
Just like the Schacht Flip Rigid Heddle Loom, there are even some table looms that can be folded up for travel! This is a really cool option if you want to save space in your home and studio or you are traveling with your loom. At this time, I have not personally tried out any of these table looms, but they exist if that is something you are looking for.
Since table looms and floor looms are essentially the same, you can easily use pattern drafts for floor looms to weave the same thing on a table loom! As we just talked about above, table looms have the ability to activate the harnesses in every combination. This means that you are not limited to the number of treadles listed on the draft.
As long as you understand how to read a weaving pattern draft then you will be able to easily pick up the conversion.
If you don’t already know how to read a weaving draft then make sure to check out this post so you can brush up on that first.
Ok, so now that you have refreshed yourself on how to read a pattern draft, let’s look at it under the lens of a table loom.
Specifically, we need to focus on the tie-up and treadling sections because that is where our two looms really differ.
The easiest way to convert your draft for your table loom is to break it down into columns and rows.
We will be looking at 4 harness patterns, but the mechanics are the same for 8+ harness drafts. In the pattern draft, the columns of the tie-up represent the different combinations of levers that will be activated as we weave. Each column will have 1 to 4 squares marked that each represent a lever.
Since we are not stepping on the treadles and they stay active until released, we can activate as many harnesses as we want at one time! This makes it possible to weave patterns with more tie-up spots than levers.
The treadling portion of the draft tells which levers to activate and when. On a floor loom you can activate more than one harness with a single treadle as long as you tie it up that way. On a table loom, you have to activate the individual harnesses/ levers with each part of the pattern.
Let’s take a look at some examples:
Example 1
Your pattern draft for plain weave will typically show a straight draft on 4 harnesses. The tie-up will use only 2 treadles with harnesses 1 and 3 on the 1st treadle and 2 and 4 on the 2nd treadle. Based on the treadling pattern you will simply alternate between treadles 1 and 2.
If we take this same draft and look at it in the lens of a table loom then in order to weave it we will have to activate levers 1 and 3 every time there is a mark in the 1st treadle column and then levers 2 and 4 whenever there is a mark in the 2nd treadle column.
The pattern draft for a 2/2 twill with also show a straight draft on 4 harnesses. The tie up will use 4 treadles with harnesses 1 and 2 on the 1st, 2 and 3 on the 2nd, 3 and 4 on the 3rd, and 1 and 4 on the 4th. Your treadling pattern will be 1, 2, 3, 4 repeat.
We are now taking these exact same numbers and using them for our table loom! A mark in treadle column 1 will mean activating levers 1 and 2, column 2 – levers 2 and 3, column 3 – levers 3 and 4, and column 4 – levers 1 and 4.
The easiest thing to do is to figure out the pattern and write it out for yourself for when you are actually weaving. Unless you memorize the pattern, this will make everything go faster since you have to remember multiple levers for each pick of the pattern.
So if I were to write out the weaving pattern for a 2/2 twill it would look something like this:
1 + 2, 2 + 3, 3 + 4, 1 + 4, repeat
I’ll usually put this on a sticky note on the castle of my loom so I can easily see it while I am weaving. The adhesives on the sticky note are also pretty mild so they won’t damage your loom at all.
What to look for in a table loom
There are so many different types of table looms out there that this post is not even going to begin to cover it. Instead, lets look at some options that you will come across and what you might want to consider before a loom purchase.
Like pretty much all looms, you will want to pay attention to size, price, and functionality.
Will the loom fit your studio and what you want to create?
Does the loom fit into your budget? (Consider new and used options. The loom above is my new-to-me table loom that I got second-hand)
Will the loom do what you need it to do?
These are generally the most important questions that you will need to answer. When it comes to table looms, though, there may be some more options to consider.
Do you need a loom that will travel well? There are some table looms out there that will fold up with your weaving still on them – making them perfect to take with you wherever you want to weave!
Do you want to convert your rigid heddle to a table loom? The Schacht Cricket has a conversion kit available to turn it into a 4 harness table loom! This could be a great option if you already have a Cricket and don’t want to purchase an entirely new loom. (I have not tried the Cricket Quartet, but it seems like a pretty interesting option).
Do you need a table loom that has a stand? A lot of table looms actually have optional stands so you don’t even need a table! This can be a great option if you don’t have a space to dedicate to a table loom.
Regardless of your needs, there is probably a table loom out there for you!
If you are looking for a weaving option that lets you weave like a floor loom for a size that is closer to a rigid heddle, then a table loom could be a really great option for you. There are many different types of table looms out there from different companies – all offering slightly different experiences, but all ultimately allowing you another option to weave and create the way that works best for you.
Unless you were tie your warp onto your loom one warp at a time (not recommended…) you will end up with bundles at the beginning of your weaving. These bundles serve the purpose of attaching your warp to your loom, but they also make it so the spacing at the beginning of your weaving is off!
This is where weaving headers come in!
What are weaving headers?
Weaving headers play a really important part in setting up your loom and starting a successful weaving.
No matter what way you warp your loom (front to back, back to front, direct, or indirect) you will need to tie your warp onto the front of your loom and space it out to create a perfect starting point.
When you are ready to start your weaving you will be looking for a flat plane of evenly spaced warp with straight selvedges. This is because you will want to start your weaving off the same way you want it to continue throughout the entire weaving process. Have you ever heard the saying “set yourself up for success”? This is a perfect example of that.
To get that perfect starting point you will need to use a header at the beginning of your weaving!
You can think of a header as sort of a “pre-weaving” because it is woven in your same pattern before you start your actual weaving to get your warps evenly spaced quicker than if you were to use up your regular yarn.
Different weavers may use different things for their headers depending on what their preference is or what they currently have on hand.
Regardless of what you choose you can opt to either use short or long strips. Longer strips will require you to have a more continuous header which can be slightly easier to weave up (just make sure not to pull too tight!)
Shorter headers will mean inserting a new piece in each shed, but they may be easier to remove in the end.
I usually do a mid range so that I can reuse them more often. If I keep longer ones than they will work for more weavings than if I only have shorter header pieces.
Some options for your weaving header are:
Fabric
Using fabric strips as a header is a really great way to get your warp evened out sooner because thicker fabric has a greater effect on the spacing. You might think you should just use the thickest fabric you can find then, but it does eventually have diminishing returns.
I am a big fan of the fabric header and I usually stick with a fabric strip of about 1.5 to 2 inches wide. I also just use scrap fabric that I have left over from other things so that I am not cutting up virgin fabric for something that is ultimately not a part of the finished piece.
Most of my weavings use an EPI of 6 -12 and this size works well for me. You might need to change it up if your EPI is different, so keep in mind there may be some experimentation involved!
When I do not have any fabric strips available then I will usually use yarn that is thicker than my yarn that I am weaving with. Most often this is some chunky knitting yarn that I have sitting around in the studio, but any chunky yarn should do well.
You could also use a thinner yarn doubled over to make it weave thicker (you can see this in the first image of the post with the blue yarn). This is a really good use for scrap yarn that you have leftover from other weaving projects. For example, I have a scrap box of yarn from loom waste etc. that I keep for reasons just like this!
Never thought I would be talking about toilet paper here on Warped Fibers, but here we are.
While I have never used toilet paper myself as a weaving header, I have heard of other weavers using this as their preferred choice. If you do not have the fabric or yarn to use then this is something I imagine you have in your house that will be easy for you to use.
A possible pro of using toilet paper is the ease in which you can remove it when your weaving is finished. Unfortunately, the toilet paper may not be as reusable as the other methods, though, so if you are looking for more sustainable options I would go with the other 2.
Getting the most out of your header
Your weaving header is doing a lot of work to get your weaving ready to go and set up for success. That being said, there are other things that you can do to make them even more successful and faster.
This can be really important because your header is taking up real estate on your warp but it is not a part of the finished piece. A large header will use up more of your loom waste and if it is too big then it may even eat into your weaving space!
If this happens then, at best, you will be wasting some yarn and, at worst, you will not have enough room to finish your planned weaving project!
Smaller bundles (find your goldilocks)
When you are tying your warp onto your front apron rod you will be doing so in bundles. First, I always tie my warp on with a half-bow because it is easy to undo but is also just as strong as a double-knot.
Like a lot of things in weaving when you tie your warp onto your loom there is a goldilocks sized bundle that you will want to strive for. This size will change depending on your EPI and size of your yarn.
Essentially, you are looking for bundles that are small enough that they space evenly without adding too much header while not being so small that they are frustrating to tie and untie.
All bundles will produce some space between them when they are tied onto your apron rod. Larger spaces will take more header to close up than smaller spaces. Remember: the more header you need the more loom waste you need to account for.
My most used sized bundles include about 6 – 8 warps per bundle, but yours may be different due to your EPI, total warp ends, and personal preference. I usually like tie my bundles in even numbers that divide into my total warp ends. This is because that way they will all be the same size and will tie up simply.
Play around with different bundle sizes to find your goldilocks size. Unless you are changing up the types of weavings that you are creating often, you probably will not have to experiment constantly with different bundles and instead use the same size more often than not!
Weave 2 beat 1
One trick that I love to teach my students when they are warping their looms is to weave 2 beat 1.
This means that I want you to weave 2 picks and then beat your header into place instead of the normal weave 1 beat 1.
This works well because having 2 full picks in place before beating your header will add a bit of extra friction to the warp and make it even out faster than if you were to weave it in normally.
The images above show the progression of your warp with a thick yarn header beaten 2 picks at a time from bundles to evenly spaced in only 3 steps!
Since your header is not a part of your finished weaving it will need to be removed during your finishing process. Depending on the material you used this could vary a bit, but generally you have 2 options for removing your header from your warp once it is off the loom.
A quick note before we get into that though: another advantage of your header is that it functions as a way to keep your weaving in place once it is no longer under tension before you finish off your warp!
This is great for if you did not do a hemstitch on that end of your weaving. I have traveled with a weaving in my bag that was unfinished – just the header at one end – many times without worrying about it unweaving. So keep it in place until you are ready for your finishing!
Regardless of what you are weaving, every weaver should own at least a few tapestry needles. They are great for weaving in your tails on balanced woven projects and for helping you to remove your header without disturbing your finished weaving.
While you can, of course, also use your fingers to do this, I have found the dull point of the tapestry needle does a better job at moving only the header and not the weft once I get up to the weaving.
To do this: lay your weaving flat on a table with the header towards you. Use the blunt end of your tapestry needle to gently tug your header out of your warp one pick at a time. If you try to do multiple picks at a time then your warp could get a bit tangled.
Removing your header this way is perfect for when you want to reuse it for later projects.
If you can not be bothered to slowly take the header out with your tapestry needle and you don’t care about reusing your header then you can cut it out! Just be careful not to accidentally cut your weaving in this process.
You can cut your header in a few different spots along your weaving and it should easily come out without much hassle. Shorter pieces should not get tangled if you tug them out.
Regardless of what you choose for your header and how you opt to remove it, the importance of using one is something I cannot say enough! Just find out what works best for you and use that.
Do you use something other than what I mentioned for your weaving header? Let me know!
