If you talk to any creative person, I bet that the finishing of their work is probably their least favorite part of their process. This is not always the case, but it seems to be pretty common! For weavers, it is often tied with planning the weaving or warping their loom. Just because it isn’t your favorite part, though, unfortunately does not mean it isn’t important. Knowing how to correctly finish your weaving is important to not only the look, but also the longevity of your finished piece.
You may even enjoy finishing because it is when things start to really seem… finished.
Hemstitch is probably one of the most common ways to finish up your balanced or pattern weaving when it is time to take it off the loom.
Hemstitch is a finishing technique that secures your warp in place so that when you take it off the loom – and it is no longer under tension – the weft doesn’t slide around and un-weave!
It is created by either using leftover weft yarn or a brand new yarn that you attach. Depending on the option you choose you can give this stitch a different look. If you decide to use a new yarn you can even choose something that will stand out from the weaving to emphasize the hemstitch.
Either blend it in or make it BOLD.
While you can use the same finishing methods on tapestry and balanced weave – methods like hemstitch are done most often on functional work like towels, scarves, and table runners. This is because it is a visual technique that bleeds onto the front of your weaving. This may not lend itself well to your tapestry, especially if your tapestry is image based. The images in this post, though, will be demonstrating hemstitch on a tapestry. This actually makes it very easy to see due to the density of the weaving. When it comes down to it hemstitch on balanced weave and on tapestry are done the exact same way.
So you can use it for tapestry if you want.
You do you.
Later in the post, we will also explore hemstitch on a balanced weaving with a video tutorial.
Most weavers use only hemstitch to finish their weavings. On its own – if done correctly – it should keep your weft in place without the addition of anything else.
Paranoia, though, usually makes me use it as a step in the finishing process. I like to make sure things are really secure. I also like the look of a knotted fringe on my scarves and other functional work, so I use them together. That does not mean that you have to, just sharing my own thoughts. One great thing about hemstitch is that you can easily combine it with other finishing techniques like knots and macrame if that is your thing.
Another note: if you are only using it as a part of your process and not your sole finishing technique then you have the option of taking out the hemstitch after it has served its purpose! Once you add in your other technique of choice just carefully cut out the hemstitch and you should be good to go. If this is the route you want to take then you should definitely choose a different colored yarn. This will make it easier to differentiate between your weaving and what needs to be cut-off.
When should you use hemstitch?
If you are worried about your weft moving after taking off the tension then hemstitch is a great option. It is very secure and simple to do once you get the hang of it. Since you have the option of weaving it so it blends in or stands out you can decide how much or how little you want to see it!
I have seen many weavers use hemstitch only for their finished fringe. This makes a softer look at the top and bottom selvedges of your weaving than using knots would. This comes down to preference mostly. Do it if you like the look of it or skip it if you don’t.
photo courtesy of student Caroline Keys
One of my favorite times to use hemstitch is when I am weaving more than one weaving on the same warp. This is a great way to secure your warp when you will have only a small spacer between your weavings. When weaving multiple weavings you will want to minimize the space between them so you are not wasting any yarn. Keeping this space small means that you will not be able to easily use knots when taking it off the loom. Using hemstitch in this case makes releasing the tension from your weaving on the loom a less stressful experience.
Especially if you have a larger weaving, the time it takes you to hemstitch is something to take into account. So if you are short on time then it might not be the best option.
Also, if you plan to take it out at a later time then you may not want to spend the time to do it. This is where it is important to know how you want to finish your weaving before you even start since hemstitch will usually be done at the beginning and the end of the weaving.
In this case, you might want to consider simply folding a bit of your weaving under and hemming it. While I have done this with a weaving the I previously hemstitched, ultimately the time it took me to do the hemstitch seemed like a waste since I had to take it out anyway.
How to hemstitch
Hemstitch is easiest when your weaving is still under tension.
This goes back to my previous point that you will need to know how you want to finish your weaving when you are still planning it. If you want hemstitch at each end of your weaving it is much easier to hemstitch the beginning when you are still at the beginning of the weaving. While you can wait and do this after it is off the loom, it will be harder this way.
Let’s get started:
You will want yarn that is at least 4-5 times the width of your weaving to make sure you have enough without having to stop. This may be overkill, but it’s better to have extra yarn than not enough. If you are using yarn that is not already attached (the remainder of your weft) then you will have to leave a tail on the back of the weaving to tuck in later.
You can do your hemstitch from right to left of left to right. It doesn’t really matter. I usually go from right to left (probably because I am right-handed.)
Come up through the back of the weaving at least 2 wefts down and 2 warps in to make sure it will be secure. Go down more if you want a more dramatic look.
Take your hemstitch yarn and float it vertically on the surface of the weaving. Make sure you don’t pierce your weft yarn and instead go between your weft rows.
Go under at least two warps and then around those same two warps so that your yarn ends on the back of the weaving.
Come back up through the back of the weaving a few warps over and down. If you want a consistent look then make sure to do this the same number of warps and wefts as when you started.
Repeat all the way across!
When you get to the end – wrap your yarn around your last two warps and instead of coming back up – tuck your yarn down a warp channel for tapestry or weave next to a warp for balanced weave. Cut any excess on the back (just like your yarn tail from the beginning.)
The number of warps that you bundle together depends on your EPI and your desired look. If you go around too many warps, though, it loses some of its effectiveness in the long term. I would not go around more than 4 warp yarns at a time unless you have a very dense warp sett. If you plan to take your hemstitch out later then going around more warps should be fine as long as it is not getting handled a lot.
There is also a video below that you can watch where I do hemstitch on a balanced weave.
Variations – Fun Ways To Add Emphasis
Use a different color for the hemstitch that is either contrasting or complimentary. Think bold colors against neutrals or black against white.
You can change up how many weft yarns you capture in your hemstitch. Try doing different patterns like 1 long, 1 short, repeat, or vary it in a graduated pattern to create triangles!
Instead of keep your lines completely parallel, consider bringing your yarn at an angle. (You’ll see this one in the video)
Hemstitch video tutorial
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Complementary Finishing Options
The simplest method to finish off your warp ends is to use overhand knots that sit flush with your weaving. This is often used for scarves or anything that requires a fringe made from your warp. When using knots by themselves and not with a hemstitch, you can use the same method as the simple ties I talked about above. Cut only a few warps at a time to keep the weaving under tension. When using them with the hemstitch – just follow the knot instructions!
Other decorative options for your fringe are macrame or braids. Macrame would be best done with hemstitch as a precursor so that it keeps everything in place.
Do you have a favorite finishing method? Let me know in the comments!
Depending on your yarn buying options you may never need any of these tools to wind yarn. This is because weaving yarn most often comes already wound onto a cone or tube ready to go.
This makes setting up your loom or winding your shuttles simple!
That being said, you may purchase yarn on a skein. This yarn needs to be wound in order to use it, otherwise, it will become a tangled mess.
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Using a ball winder
Probably the most well-known and common way of turning a skein of yarn into a cake: the ball winder is also one of the fastest ways to do it. Despite the name ball winder – it actually makes yarn cakes, but really it does not matter since they do the same thing!
You can either get a manual one or an electric one depending on how much you want to spend and how much work you want to do. These are both great options if you will be winding a lot of cakes and want something that goes relatively fast.
Nostepinne?!
The nostepinne is the original ball winder! It is also the one you probably have never heard of – until now.
Nostepinne means “nest-stick” in Scandinavian and that is a pretty good name for this tool. It is a polished stick that you nest your yarn on to create a center-pull ball. These polished sticks are a simple tool that you can carry with you anywhere. They are actually pretty simple to use too, but they do take a bit longer to wind your ball than a ball winder.
They also require a bit of patience to get the rhythm of the ball going. It will actually feel a bit odd at first, but sticking with it will get you a satisfying center-pull yarn ball!
How to use a nostepinne:
Open up your skein and either place it on an umbrella swift or stretch it across a stable surface.
Find one end of your skein and either wrap it around the far end of your nostepinne a few times or attach it with a slip knot. This will be the center-pull part of the ball.
Start wrapping your yarn around so that the wraps are sitting next to each other. After you have done this a few times, you can start to cross them diagonally as you twist the nostepinne towards you. You will want to try to catch it on the shoulder of the ball you are making as you go. This will help to make sure that it does not get loose.
Twisting the nostepinne while wrapping will ensure that the ball grows evenly and securely. You will want to make sure that your wraps are not just building upon themselves. Also, make sure that you are not wrapping too tight so you do not stretch out your yarn.
When you are done you can simply slide off your ball and tuck in the yarn end that was originally wrapped around the nostepinne!
There is more than one way to wrap a nostepinne, but this is the way I was taught. You can always play around with it to find a way that feels natural to you. Another common method is to wrap your yarn in a figure 8 pattern. Try it out and see which one you like!
Wind your yarn with a knitting needle!
Knitting needles are used in much the same way as a nostepinne since they are basically the same shape.
When it comes down to it all you really need is a stick to wrap some yarn around!
The directions are also the same as for the nostepinne. The only difference is that there is no dedicated notch to attach the center of the yarn to, so just make sure to keep it separate.
The advantage of the nostepinne over the knitting needle is that the nostepinne will be more comfortable to hold. Since it is a dedicated tool for that purpose it is made to be held for longer periods of time while you are working with it.
The advantage of the knitting needle is you may already have one in your studio!
If you only need to wind a ball of yarn occasionally then this may be a great option for you. If you will be winding yarn balls often then you may want to invest in a nostepinne or a ball-winder.
If you have none of the above and you still need to create a ball to work from then you still have an option! This option does not create a center-pull yarn ball, but it still creates a yarn ball that is in a format you can easily use for warping or shuttle winding.
I have actually gone over instructions on creating a yarn ball by hand in my t-shirt yarn tutorial. If you are looking for ayarn winding option that does not require any extra tools then make sure to check out myt-shirt yarn post.
An umbrella swift is a tool that is used to hold a skein of yarn and turn freely as the yarn is taken from it in order to turn it into a ball or cake. They are often made of wood, but also sometimes made of metal and plastic and they open up much like an umbrella does (hence the name.) This means that despite their open size, they do get smaller and easier to store when not in use.
Umbrella swifts are a great tool to have if you are winding yarn because it holds the skein for you and does the work of keeping it tangle-free during the winding process.
If you are using either the nostepinne, knitting needle, or winding a ball by hand then you do not need the umbrella swift. You can put the skein around a chair back or even around your knees while you are sitting in order to keep it taught and tangle-free.
If you are using a ball winder though (and especially the electric ball winder) you will want an umbrella swift to accompany it. So while the ball winder itself is sometimes not that much more expensive than your other yarn winding options, the fact that you need the umbrella swift definitely adds to the expense.
Regardless of how you decide to wind your yarn, it is always good to have some options in your weaving toolbox (literal and figurative!) If winding balls of yarn is not going to be a regular occurrence then stick with a simple method with inexpensive tools or ones you already have.
If you need to wind your own yarn often then I recommend investing a bit more to get a swift and a ball winder so you can spend more time weaving and less time preparing to weave.
Plain weave is a simple weaving technique that is full of depth and incredibly versatile. In fact, I have an entire post on patterns that you can make in plain weave just by changing up the colors of the warp and weft you are weaving with.
What if you are looking for something a little bit different, though, something that can be spontaneous?
That is where clasped weft comes in!
If you are new, or you just want a general reminder of your weaving terms, you can brush up here before continuing!
Clasped weft is a weaving technique that is done in a plain, balanced weaving. The “pattern” that you create can be decided as you weave because you are not limited to the pattern created by combining certain colors of warp and weft.
Clasped weft has some similarities to a few different tapestry techniques, but is also very different!
For a quick refresher: tapestry is a weft-faced weaving with discontinuous weft. Clasped weaving, on the other hand, is a balanced weaving with discontinuous and double weft.
So let’s break down clasped weaving into it’s parts to get a better understanding of the technique as a whole.
First, balanced weaving. A balanced weaving is one where you see the same amount of warp as you do weft – the ratio of warp to weft is balanced or at least close to it.
Discontinuous weft is where your weft yarn does not continue across the entire pick of your weaving. Instead it stops somewhere between the selvedges, is met by a different weft, and then returns to the selvedge it started at. If you are weaving tapestry, then this weft returns to the selvedge in a different pick, but in clasped weft, it returns in the same pick. This is where the next part comes in.
Double weft. This means that you will have 2 picks of weft in the same shed instead of the usual 1. If you are weaving with just 2 weft colors (weft 1 and weft 2) then weft 1 and 2 will meet somewhere in the middle of your weaving, wrap around each other, and then return to the selvedges all without changing your shed. This will show up as having 2 picks of weft woven in the same shed.
Where you decide to have your wefts meet is entirely up to you and your pattern! This is where you really get to have fun with this technique.
So I already mostly explained the how of clasped weft while I was explaining the what, but we can go a bit more in depth.
The most common way to create your clasped weft is to weave your first color (A) all the way across your weaving and out of your selvedge. Then twist your second weft color (B) around the first weft and pull the first weft back through the same shed.
By twisting the 2 wefts around each other, you are doing 2 different things. First, you are joining them together for the visual of the clasped weft. Second, you are ensuring that the first weft is not unweaving the first pick across the weaving since you never changed your shed.
As I said previously, where to place the join is completely up to you and I recommend playing around and having fun with it. You can either do it in a very regimented way to create stair step patterns, diamonds, etc. Or you can do it where you just go back and forth and stop wherever you feel like it! Both of these methods are completely valid and can create super interesting and fun designs. They also create entirely different designs. All with the same technique!
Gotta love the versatility!
If you are weaving more than 2 colors with your clasped weft, then things can change up a little bit.
Clasped Weft With 3 Colors
Weaving clasped weft with 2 colors can create a really fun and interesting design, but what if you want more?
Adding on a third color isn’t really more difficult as long as you start it out correctly.
The most important tip for weaving clasped weft with 3 colors is that the middle color will always be your lead color and you will need to pay attention to where the middle color started in your weaving.
When starting your 3 color clasped weft you will need to start the middle color (A) in the middle of the weaving. Then this color will travel the rest of the way across the shed to wrap around and pick up your second color (B) and then back across to pick up your third color (C). Then A will make its way back to where it started in the middle of the weaving. ALL of this happens within the same shed!
It is important for color A to go back to where it started to maintain the double weft as much as possible. If it goes too far then there will be an area of triple weft and if it doesn’t go far enough there will be an area of single weft. No matter what you do, there will be a small transition area where the double weft switches, but it should mostly blend in to the rest of the weaving.
Once you pick up both B and C with A then you can maneuver the weft to exactly where you want it before you beat it, just like 2 color clasped weft.
Tip: If you are having trouble starting and stopping your middle color A in the same spot each time, then use a knitting stitch marker or tie an extra piece of yarn around the warp you need to start and stop at to more easily identify it.
Clasped weft is a really great option for pretty much anything you want to create. It makes a stunning scarf, table runner, pillow, towel, etc. etc. Really anything you want to create could be fun with clasped weft.
When you are weaving with clasped weft, to really get the most out of your design, I highly recommend choosing colors deliberately because they will really change the outcome of your finishing weaving. Choosing colors that are very different will make a bolder pattern that stands out more. You could also choose one of your wefts to be similar to that of your warp to give off a purposefully unbalanced look.
Variegated yarns can also be a really fun inclusion because they change as you go with no extra thought required! This can usually lead to some really interesting and unexpected results.
As always, I recommend playing around with different ideas before planning a full project to fully get a feel for what this technique can do and how you want to use it.
This can be a good thing – or a bad thing. I’m sure we have all had our share of unwanted knots that keep us from our weavings or other Fiber Art. If you are getting these knots because you are using yarn by itself with no shuttle or bobbin then you might want to consider making a butterfly to keep your yarn from knotting.
Otherwise, there are some useful weaving knots that you will actually WANT for setting up and finishing your weaving.
The most widely used knot in weaving and probably, in general, is the square knot. If you only know how to do one knot – this is the one!
You can use a square knot in many different ways when weaving.
I use it the most often when setting up a simple frame loom to attach my warp or scaffolding to the frame. A lot of weavers also use this to attach their warp to the apron bar on the floor loom – but I prefer the half bow for that (keep reading for that one.)
The square knot is strong and simple to do. It is hard to undo if it gets tight, though, so make sure you are ok with potentially cutting it off later.
How To Make A Square Knot:
You will want 2 open ends of yarn.
Step 1: Twist yarn 1 around and under yarn 2.
Step 2: Bring yarn back over yarn 2 and up.
Step 3: Bring yarn 2 over yarn 1.
Step 4: Yarn 2 goes around and under yarn 1 (through the loop that was created.)
The overhand knot is often used as a method to secure the fringe on the end of a scarf or rug.
Besides the square knot, this is probably the other most used knot on this list that you might use in other scenarios outside of weaving. While this one is very simple and well known – I figured it is still worth mentioning.
An overhand knot is useful in a lot of different scenarios – it is also how I tie the end of my grey thread when I am attaching it to a weaving and how I tie up my warp bundles at the back of my floor loom.
This knot also works well as a simple knot to secure fringe on a scarf or rug.
Step 1: Create a loop with the end of your yarn(s) with the open end on top.
Step 2: Bring the open end of the yarn(s) around to the back and through the loop.
Step 3: Pull tight.
Lark’s Head
The lark’s head knot is not really a knot as much as a way to fasten yarn to something.
It is notable as a common way to attach your yarn to a dowel rod when starting up a new macrame wall hanging. Two common ways that it can be used in weaving are for 4 selvedge weaving and on your frame loom.
When you set up a loom for 4 selvedge weaving – the lark’s head knot is used around the bar to attach it to the frame.
On a floor loom, this same knot is often used to attach the apron strings to the apron rod. It can also be used to attach the treadles to the lamms of certain floor looms.
You can do the same thing around any object. In this step-by-step, I have done it around a tree branch.
How To Make A Lark’s Head Knot:
You will want 1 piece of yarn and something to attach it to.
Step 1: Fold your piece of yarn in half and lay it underneath your dowel rod, stick, or whatever you are attaching it too with the loop end up.
Step 2: Bring the open end of the yarn up, around, and through the loop above the stick.
Step 3: Pull the yarn all the way through the loop and position where you want it.
The weaver’s knot is often used as a way to tie your new warp onto your existing warp.
This is a GREAT thing to do because it can cut down on your loom setup time.
If you are not a fan of the warping process and you already have some leftover warp/ loom waste still on your loom you can save yourself some time.
This is also a knot that you can use to attach 2 weft yarns together instead of dealing with tails.
That is not my preferred method, as a knot can be hard to hide – but it may be an option for you to try out. If you are using it for this technique then you will want to snip off the extra tails and trust the knot to do its job and hold it together.
Just like the lark’s head knot, the half bow is used in both the 4 selvedge and floor loom process.
On a 4 selvedge weaving, you can use the half bow on the other end of the yarn that is using the lark’s head around the rod. The half bow will instead be around the frame.
On a floor loom, using a half bow is my favorite way to attach my warp to the apron rod.
This “knot” is ideal for this because it is both really strong and easy to undo.
Unlike the square knot that is hard to untie – the half bow comes off the rod easily. It is also stronger than a full bow because the size of the yarn around the loop is smaller and therefore holds tighter.
How To Make a Half Bow:
Pt. 1
You will need at least 1 piece of yarn and something to attach it to. In this case, I am using a frame and 1 piece of yarn that has been folded to have 2 ends. Your yarn will most likely be attached to a rod at the other end whether on a floor loom or warping 4 selvedge.
Step 1: Lay the yarn over your frame or rod with both ends together.
Step 2: Next, bring your 2 ends around the frame and split them so there is one on each side.
Step 3: Bring 1 end over and around the other end (like the first step of the square knot.)
Step 4: Pull tight!
Pt. 2
Essentially, the second part of the half bow is just tying a bow (like you tie your shoes) and pulling out one of the loops.
Step 5: Create a loop with 1 end of the yarn.
Step 6: Wrap the other end of the yarn over and around the loop.
Step 7: Next, pull that same end through the other loop you created when you wrapped it around (this should now look like a bow.)
Step 8: Continue to pull that second end all the way through and tighten!
Knowing these weaving knots will help you out in a lot of different scenarios – both in and out of the studio!
Do you have a favorite weaving knot? One that I didn’t mention that you use all the time?
What is the worst thing that can happen while you are weaving?
Depending on who you ask, the answer may be “a broken warp”.
While this is not an ideal thing to have to deal with, it is not the end of the world! A small setback – yes, but something that is actually very easy to deal with once you know how to do it!
One of my favorite things about weaving is how easy it can be to fix any mistakes that you make and issues that come up.
Regardless of the type of loom you are using, your fixed warp will be just as simple to weave with as your previous warp was. You may end up having 2 extra tails to deal with when your weaving is off the loom, but in the grand scheme of things – this is doable.
I believe in you!
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Luckily, with a bit of forethought, a broken warp should not be a regular occurrence. Sometimes they do happen though and these are a few reasons why:
Getting twisted in your heddles – make sure to double-check your threading as you go. It is important to make sure your warp is going through the heddles straight or it adds stress on the yarn.
Too much friction in reed – if your warp is too thick or there is just too much stress on your yarn (selvedges pulling in a lot) then the reed may be putting friction on it.
Accidently cutting it when you mean to cut weft – oops!
Picked the wrong warp – Warp yarns should be strong! If you are trying to use yarns that do not meet the strength test then they will be more likely to break. While a broken warp here and there is not something to get too worried about – having yarn that is unsuitable for warp will make trying to weave with it an uphill battle. Do yourself a favor and do not choose yarn that is not strong enough for the job. Learn more about picking the right warp yarn here.
If you are not sure why your warp is breaking then try to see where it is breaking. This can help you determine the problem.
This method is best for when you do not have a lot woven. If you have already woven a lot then you can follow the instructions in the next section for the notched loom where we do not completely replace the warp.
The first thing you will want to do when you have a broken warp is to tie off the top of the warp yarn to the frame to keep your tension even. This is important because your warp is one continuous piece of yarn. A simple square knot will be fine for this.
Cut a piece of yarn to be your replacement warp. This warp yarn will need to be longer than the height of your weaving so that you have enough yarn to tie it to the frame. The amount extra will depend on the frame you are using and how much yarn you personally need to tie a knot.
Next: tie this new warp yarn to the bottom of the frame in the same spot as the broken warp.
Then with your tapestry needle, follow the warp channel (include your scaffolding with this) and up through your weaving. Be careful not to pierce the weft yarns on the front or the back of your weaving!
Take this new warp yarn and tie it to the top of your frame, again make sure to go through your scaffolding. This will be next to your original tied warp.
Once your new warp is in place you can remove the old warp from your weaving and tie it to the bottom of your frame. This will keep the tension of your weaving.
Done! Keep weaving like nothing ever happened.
Fixing a broken warp on a notched frame loom
What you need: extra warp yarn
Fixing a broken warp yarn on a notched frame loom is essentially the exact same as fixing a broken warp yarn on a simple frame loom. This is because neither one of them has an advancing warp. These smaller weavings are easier to fix because you can just tie a new warp yarn onto your frame in place of the broken one.
The same options also apply. If your woven area is small then I recommend a full replacement, and if your woven area is large then your broken warp yarn should stay in place with the new warp yarn overlapping and taking over for the rest of the weaving.
The size of the woven area in these photos is small enough that I could have done a full replacement, but I opted for an overlapped warp for the sake of this post.
If you are overlapping your warp then instead of weaving up the entire warp channel, you would instead weave into your scaffolding and then float the warp on the back of the weaving until a few inches below the top of your woven area. Then weave up the remaining few inches of your warp channel and tie your new warp to the top of the loom.
This is much simpler than trying to weave up the warp channel of a large weaving but it still anchors the warp in place for easy weaving.
Your old warp yarn will stay in place and your new warp yarn will overlap it by a few wefts. The friction of the weft on the broken warp will keep the tension intact for the remainder of the weaving.
The pictures show the warp floating on the front of the weaving because it is easier to fix this way, but you will want to push these tails to the back of the weaving when you are finishing it. This will make it look cleaner.
Once the weaving is finished and off the loom you can weave the broken warp and the new warp back into the weaving. Pull the new warp from the scaffolding to free it to be woven in. This is done in the same way as you would weave in your weft tails.
Fixing a broken warp on a rigid heddle and floor loom
What you need: extra warp yarn, t-pins, weights, something to hold your extra warp
Fixing a broken warp on a rigid heddle loom and a floor loom (and also a table loom!) is basically the same because the warp mechanics are very similar.
The biggest difference will be in the weights and types of weights you will be able to use since floor looms are much taller than their rigid heddle and table counterparts. It is possible you can use similar weights, but you will have to play around with the right options to maintain the right tension on your warp.
The first thing you need to do for a broken warp on an advancing warp loom is to measure out a new warp yarn to replace the broken one. I always like to make notes on my weavings for occasions like these. That way I know exactly how long my replacement warp yarn should be.
Take this warp over to your loom and tie a small square knot at one end.
Insert your t-pin into this knot and insert your t-pin into your weaving a few inches below where your woven area has stopped. Be careful when inserting your t-pin into your weaving that you do not pierce your weaving. Also, I recommend putting the tip of the pin toward the back of your weaving so you do not pierce yourself…
Next, you will re-sley your reed or your rigid heddle with your new warp yarn. If using a floor or table loom you will need to also re-thread your heddle.
The remainder of your yarn can be wrapped around a weight and left to hang from the back of your weaving.
If you have old film canisters or pill bottles these work really well to contain the remainder of your warp so it is not dragging on the ground.
The weight that you choose will depend on the amount of tension that you need. Fishing weights are really good options because they are small and heavy, but you can use anything that is easy to get your hands on!
You will need to let out the extra warp as you keep weaving and moving your warp forward. Just think of this as a way to make sure you get up and stretch occasionally!
Your new warp will weave in seamlessly and beyond letting out some warp from the weight occasionally, your weaving experience will be the same.
Once your weaving is finished you can take it off your loom as usual.
To start your finishing process: remove your t-pin or straight pin and untie your square knot. You will finish this the same way as any other broken warp. Weave in your broken and new warp up and down the warp channels. It is ok if your new warp tail is on the shorter side, weave it in anyway. It will be overlapping your old warp so everything should stay in place.
This works even if you have a balanced weaving and you can see the warps. I have circled where the warps overlap in the picture below.
When a warp breaks it can be easy to stress out and get discouraged. Luckily, if you follow any of the steps above then it should not be any more than a few minutes of extra time added to your weaving!
Measuring out your warp for your loom is an important weaving skill that all weavers should know how to do.
It is one of the first steps for setting up your weaving on your loom. When it comes to measuring your warp for your floor, table, or even your rigid heddle loom* there are 2 main options to choose from – a warping board or a warping mill.
*Rigid heddle looms are often direct warped, but using a warping board or mill is still a great skill to learn in case you don’t want to direct warp.
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Why would you choose a warping board over a warping mill?
Available Space
Available Funds
Warping boards will take up less space than warping mills because they are flatter and can be hung on a wall. A warping mill needs room to freely rotate – although it can usually be collapsed some when not in use. Warping boards are also usually easy to take apart and therefore easier to travel with if you need to.
Boards tend to be less expensive than mills because they have no moving parts. In fact, they’re essentially glorified frames with pegs in them. That being said, the pegs are spaced out in such a way that you should be able to measure your warp in yards and half yards if you follow the right path.
First things first: How much warp do you need?
If you are planning your weaving then you will figure out how many warp ends (individual warps) you need and how long those warps will be. This is the first step when it comes to using your warping board.
If you need help figuring this out then make sure to check out my planning your weaving post. You can also get my Weaving Process & Planning Guide where I walk you through that (and more!) plus you get the exclusive project planning worksheet. Just click the image below.
Choose some yarn that is a different color than your warp. I like to use inexpensive acrylic yarn in a bright color so there will be no doubt that it is not my usual warp and it is easy to follow.
Measure out one strand of yarn that is the length of your desired warp plus a little extra (just a few inches.) That little extra yarn will allow you to tie your leader yarn to your warping board and still maintain the length you need.
You can (and should!) hang onto this yarn to reuse in the future. Even if your future warp is shorter than your current one, you can mark the new length on your leader yarn and tie it around the correct peg at that point. It is ok to have some extra that isn’t being used. It’s better than creating a whole new length of yarn if you don’t have to!
Find your warp path
Not your war path.
…
Your warp path may be different every time you measure your warp depending on your warping board and the length of your yarn. You can follow the side of your frame, zig-zag across it, or do anything in between!
Find the path that makes the most sense to you and one that allows you to create a good rhythm. You will have to follow this path with your warp yarn hundreds of times so don’t make it too hard on yourself and it’s a bonus if it can even be a little fun! Put on some music and get into your warping rhythm.
When you apply your leader yarn to your warp path you will want to build in the beginning of your x so that you can account for that extra yarn and it’s easier to follow when you start warping. As you can see in the image above – the leader yarn does not go straight across the top of the pegs. Instead, it bends around and under peg 3.
The x in your weaving is something that you want to stay mindful of when measuring your warp and setting up your loom. Creating this cross keeps your individual warps separated and avoids tangled yarn and messy situations. While losing your x is not the end of the world, it is definitely still something you want to avoid if you can help it. 300 tangled warp ends aren’t anyone’s friend.
Trust me.
Using your warping board
Attach your yarn straight from the cone/ tube/ or skein by tying it to your first peg.
Follow your lead yarn so that it goes over peg 2 and under peg 3.
Continue over the rest of your pegs and wrap around the last peg at the end of your leader yarn.
Follow the lead yarn back to the beginning but this time you will do the opposite of what you did originally.
Go over peg 3 and under peg 2.
Continue by going around peg 1 and starting over.
Do this as many times as you have warp ends!
You can count your warp as you go or just count every so often – it’s up to you. I do recommend stopping every once in a while to count out your warp ends and bundle them every 25-50 warps with a looped piece of yarn and an overhand knot. I always count more than once, just in case. This will make it so at the end you don’t have to count and recount hundreds of warp ends. (shown in first image under warp ties below- top row)
Once you are finished – cut your warp yarn with some to spare and use that end to tie your warp bundle together at the last peg. To do this you will loop your cut end around the top bundle and then bring it back through the loop you created. (shown above)
You can use any yarn that you have that is a different color from your warp (I talk about using recycled yarn for this exact reason in THIS post!) I like to call warp ties “security blankets” because they help to make sure all your hard work counting out and creating your warp bundle doesn’t end up in a big pile of knots! The warp ties in the images above are made with bright blue yarn.
The most important space for your warp ties is around your x. You will essentially be wrapping your security blanket yarn around this cross twice to make it really secure. Then a simple overhand knot will keep it in place. (see the third picture above top row)
You will also want warp ties:
On each side of your x. Make a loop around the bundle and use an overhand knot. This will help you out if you accidentally lose your x later on.
Around every foot or so of warp. This one will be done sort of like a figure 8. I usually divide up my warp into 3 smaller bundles and go around those. (see middle picture above – top row) Follow the red arrows!
Once you are done with all your warp ties you can carefully pull your warp off your board and transfer it to your loom! If you are planning to warp your loom right away then you can move it straight over. If you are planning to warp your loom later or you need to transfer it then I recommend chaining it to move it easier.
How to chain your warp bundle
If you crochet then think of this the same way you start a project, but with your arm instead of a hook. Stick your arm through your x loop and reach down to your bundle.
Pull up some of the bundle through your loop creating another loop.
Continue until the end.
This will create a shorter bundle that is easier to transfer and less likely to get tangled.
Things to keep in mind
If you have a lot of warp ends then I recommend measuring out your warp bundle in stages. Once you are setting up your loom you can’t stop mid sleighing of your reed for each bundle (when warping front to back.) When you break up your warp into multiple bundles it allows you to take a break if you need to. Get up and stretch or grab a sip or water.
I recommend this once your warp ends get to be over 200. Then just break it up into bundles of 100 or whatever amount seems manageable for you.
If you come across any knots in your warp yarn while using your warping board then you will want to keep those out of your finished weaving. Cut your warp yarn at the knot and go back to either your 1st or last peg (whichever is closer) and tie the warp to the peg just like when you first started (see above.) Start again from this same peg and keep going. You may lose a little bit of yarn this way depending on where your knot was, but it’s better than having a knot in your weaving!
This is also how you would keep going if you finish up a cone of yarn and need to start another. Knots at the end of your bundles around your pegs will not affect your weaving at all because they are a part of your loom waste. Knots in the middle of your warp will be visible in your finished weaving.
You can avoid them.
Stabilizing your warp cone or tube while measuring your warp will help you have a more fluid motion with your board. It will also keep your yarn cleaner since it’s not rolling all around your floor. You can use a cone holder like this one that will rotate and keep it coming off the cone smoother. Or this stationary one that holds up to 4 cones at a time.
Or you can just put your warp yarn in a box on the floor and let it roll around in there. Not quite as elegant and a little finicky, but it works.
Warp a little faster
Using two hands while you are warping can actually make it go faster. Follow your leading hand with your other hand in order to help you smoothly get around your pegs. The more you use your warping board the faster you will get and the easier it will be to get in the flow.
Put on some music and enjoy the movement of the warp across the board. It can be almost as meditative as the weaving itself.
